Hue Away

Danang Harbour, northern end

Since cruising around Hoi An on a motorbike, we moved on to Hue.  The three hour train trip went through some beautiful countryside overlooking the Danang harbour.  I imagine forty years ago it was filled with American ships, now only fishing boats and the occasional freighter.

In the oppressive heat and humidity we toured the Hue Citadel or Imperial City.  This was the site of the site of the Battle of Hue, a major battle of the Tet Offensive in 1968.  Bullet and mortar holes can still be seen on the walls and 60% of the Citadel was destroyed in the battle but UNESCO is helping to restore the old emperors' palace and buildings.

The walls of the Citadel, Hue

Hue Citadel from the Perfume River

Where Tu Duc contemplated and wrote poetry

Entrance to a Tomb

Besides the Citadel the Nguyen Dynasty built many tombs in the countryside around Hue.  These were some of the last emperors in Vietnam starting around 1840 to 1940. So we hopped on another motorbike and headed along the Perfume River to the tombs.  Considering the structures were not that old, many were in rather bad disrepair.  Some of these emperors were real despots.  One, Tu Duc, built his tomb while he was still alive and it was really his country retreat spread over many acres with houses for his concubines (153 in all - would explain why so many Vietnamese are called Nguyen!) and lakes and pavilions where he could 'contemplate and write poetry'.  Then when he died he had himself buried with his treasures in a secret place then had all his concubines and servants killed so no one  would know where his final resting place was.   

So enough of this land based touring.  Time to get back on the water.  We took a cruise down the Perfume River in one of these gems.

Tourist boat on Perfume River, Hue

 Bob was even given a bit of time at the helm.

Bob at the helm

But there were lots of hazards in the river, both animate and inanimate.

Water buffalo grazing

Swan boats and floating lotus sculptures

But these over laden boats happily when along the river with their cargo of river sand, no doubt being used for cement for the massive building boom going on.
 

River sand being transported on the Perfume River

 
The cruise ended at the Thien Mu 

Thien Mu Pagoda

Pagoda. This pagoda and monastery sits on top of a beautiful little hill overlooking the river. It was build in the 1600's.  During the Vietnam (or American) War it became a hot bed of anti-Diem government protests. 
 

View from Thien Mu Pagoda

Room housing the blue Austin

One of the monks, Thich Quang Duc, drove a blue Austin to Saigon in June 1963 where he set himself on fire to protest the corrupt Diem government.  The car is at the Pagoda but was away  for 'repairs' when we were there.

So we say goodbye to Hue and endure another overnight sleeper on Vietnamese railways to Hanoi.

Land 'sailing' for two months

HCMC traffic during a tropical downpour

Our sailing blog will be land based for the next two months but in keeping with the SCYC we will endeavour to keep a nautical theme though in reality this trip is not about sailing. Came to HCMC on study tour of used boat market for prospective purchase of the keel boat for Shamballa Cruising Yacht Club. Found lots of stink boats, mostly at the bottom of the Saigon River, http://vietnamnews.vn/search/?q=boat%20sinks  .  The place is crying out for a good marina and some sailing yachts. Mind you if the harbour traffic is anything like the street traffic, a yachtie might be better off facing cyclones in the South China Sea.
Hoi An showed some possibilities for the cruising yacht trade.  This little wooden motor boat could be a contender.

Tourist cruise boat at Hoi An

Or maybe start a ferry business taking commuters to the islands around the river.

Ferry on Song Thu Bon River in Hoi An filled with commuters and their motorbikes

Or maybe a fishing boat, mind you there are no nav lights, no life jackets but a great dunny out the back.

Fishing boat at Cua Dai - note dunny out the back decorated with life rings

However some of the bridges might be a bit tricky to sail through.

Old bridge in Hoi An

Even so the ocean certainly looks inviting.

Beach near Hoi An

But for now Bob and Eileen will have to be content traveling as the locals do - on motorbikes.

Bob and Eileen on our way to My Son