Sailing

Sailing: the fine art of getting wet and becoming ill while slowly going nowhere at great expense.

Thursday 30 July 2015

We’re in London Town




There is so much to see and do in London that a week of non-stop, exhausting sightseeing barely scratches the surface.  London is expensive but museums are free and just walking the streets is great eye candy that holds a history lesson in every block.  We were constantly walking along exclaiming ‘Look that is where XX book/movie/TV show was set’ or ‘Look that is where so and so lived’!  So much of our cultural history comes from this massive, beautiful city.

Pam lives in a small flat on the edge of leafy Wimbledon.  The area reminds us so much of the leafy suburbs of Northern Sydney.  We could be in St Ives or Turramurra, except that the houses are a bit closer together and oozing history.  Wimbledon Village is packed with upmarket shops and cafes where you can watch the horses walk through the streets on the way to the commons for a bit of a canter.
Wimbledon Village
The public transport in London is terrific.  Buses and trains run every 5-10 minutes to everywhere in the city. They are clean and modern and announce every stop.  With Google maps and the pre-paid Oyster card, it is simple to get within a few minutes’ walk of your destination.
The Oyster Card for public transport in London
We took a water taxi from Putney to Embankment.  As we sped down this muddy, fast flowing tidal Thames River, one could almost see the Artful Dodger skulking along the banks, or imagine The Bill finding a body in the muddy shore at low tide.
The old and new city from the Thames
We spent the day oohing and aahing at all the iconic sights of London – Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace where we fortuitously happened upon the changing of the guard.
Houses of Parliament and Big Ben

Changing of the guard

Westminster Abbey - will cost 20  quid to get in
The next day we went to Hampton Court, home of Henry VIII, with its magnificent kitchens and gardens.
Hampton Court
Garden at Hampton Court
We went to the Imperial War Museum which was a place Bob had wanted to go to for years.  It was packed on the rainy, cold day we went (Where is summer in this country?) and we felt the exhibits were not as well done as the AWM but it was still a good place to visit. 

Insert photo
On a cool Saturday we did more walking around the city with Pam.  Kensington Gardens was lovely and we had a great time people watching and seeing the palace and gardens.  We also checked out the fictitious home of Sherlock Holmes, 221b Baker Street, which went from little more than a plaque on a wall on my last visit in 2006 to now a museum and shop with a queue of people half a block long awaiting entry.
Kensington Palace
Near Peter Pan Statue in Kensington Gardens
Sherlock Holmes Museum
A similar blurring of fiction and reality can be seen at Kings Cross Station where a Platform 9 ¾ has been made for people to take their photos pretending to be on their way to Hogworts School for Witchcraft and Wizardry.   Though amazingly where everything costs in London, this site does not have an entry fee and one can line up to take their photos for free.  There is a professional photographer on hand and staff managing the huge queue but no actual charge to stand in line and take your own photo.
Harry Potter where are you?
 The last day of sightseeing in London turned out to be the most thrilling for me but sadly I was unable to get any photo record.  On Sunday we went to the British Library.  I expected an old venerable building but the library is in a huge modern complex. One must register to get into any of the reading rooms but that disappointment was more than made up for by their Treasures of the Library exhibit.  On display were original handwritten scores by Beethoven, Bach, Handle and Debussy, handwritten lyrics by the Beatles, Antarctic diaries of Scott, lab notes of Alexander Fleming, letters by Karl Marx, Henry VII and Nelson.  I was totally overwhelmed and awed at these precious artefacts.  It was a thrill and privilege to see them.

Thursday 16 July 2015

Travel with Friends III – Fethiye, Kayakoy, Tlos and Seklikand Canyon



Sadly our planned 6 day sailing trip to Fethiye and its beautiful bay was cut short by a dodgy windlass motor.  After two nights in Ekinçek we sailed (motored) back to Yat Marine and decided to rent a car and do the sights by land.

The first day in Fethiye we decided to give D & T a bit more water time with a Gulet trip around the bay.  Bob and I had done this last year and loved it.  This year tourism was down so we had a Gulet with only about half the people on it compared to last year – very nice for us but not so for the tour operators.  The staff were fantastic and the stops for swimming lovely.  We got to see different areas of the bay and had a thoroughly enjoyable day.  
Fethiye from the water
One of the crew contemplating the views

T jumping from the deck
Our lunch being prepared
The next day was a long sightseeing day visiting Kayaköy, Tlos and Seklikand Canyon.  Just 8 km outside of Fethiye lays the ghost town of Kayaköy.  The once sizeable and prosperous town was emptied of its Greek Christian inhabitants as part of the population exchange between Turkey and Greece at the end of WWI.  Kayaköy is a bitter-sweet, eerie place and that time a sad period in history for both countries.  Kayaköy was the site which inspired Louis de Bernières for his 2004 novel Birds Without Wings.  In 2014, Kayaköy also was the setting for the closing scenes of Russell Crowe's film The Water Diviner'.  The town was much bigger than I expected and I would have appreciated more signage describing the inhabitants of the abandoned homes, a way to bring the ghosts to life.
Kayakoy


Old church with mosaic courtyard
 


Could be a scene from 100 years ago

Village women making gözleme
We got lost trying to find Seklikand Canyon and ended up spending over an hour driving through winding narrow mountainous road that gave us the serendipitous opportunity to observe some fascinating examples of remote Turkish agriculture.  The lanes were lined with pomegranate and olive trees, goats roamed in the fields and numerous times we had to pull over to let tractors go by. 
Pomegranate
We went full circle and returned to Tlos.  Tlos is an ancient Lycian city with settlement on the site dating back 4000 years.  The site has been continuously occupied by Lycians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Ottoman Turks and the ruins give wonderful examples of all these periods.  New relics are still being unearthed.  Magnificent marble statues of Roman Emperors on display at the Fethiye museum were discovered at Tlos only 4 years ago.
Close-up of the sculpture of Emperor Hadrian? excavated in 2011
Amphitheatre and mountain backdrop

Old Ottoman fort

Walls and buildings of Tlos

Tombs and ruins

At the roadside cafe at Tlos we got directions to Seklikand Canyon (we were only a few km away when we circled around the mountain roads) and decided to have another go.  Taking the correct route, it only took 15 minutes to drive to the canyon.  The site was well worth the effort.  The canyon is a slit through Taurus Mountains, the water literally pouring through cracks in the sheer mountainside to join the Xanthos River.
The intrepid crossing the icy river
Water rushing through the mountainside
The canyon
Raging river under the walkway
Exciting picnic spot

Outside the canyon

Saturday 11 July 2015

Travel with Friends II – Caunos, Dalyan and Amos



While waiting for the elusive water pump to arrive from Athens, we rented a car for two days to see some of the land sites around Marmaris.  It was great to have a car and I’m surprised Bob and I hadn’t taken up this option before.  The marina has a deal with a local car hire company which is very reasonable and gives excellent service.

Our first day was to the town of Dalyan and the ancient city of Caunos (sometimes spelled Kaunos).  The ruins of this ancient city dates back to the 9th Century BC.  It was a Carian city on the border with the Lycian Kingdom and blended the two cultures.  The city was a prosperous port but declined around the 5 - 7th Centuries AD as the harbour silted up and now consists of reed beds stretching 8 km to the Mediterranean Sea.  Today Dalyan is a charming little town on the river and the gateway to the ruins of Caunos, the Turtle beach sanctuary where loggerhead turtles lay their eggs, and mud baths and mineral springs. 
View of modern day Dalyan in the distance

Marshes stretching from Caunos to the Mediterranean
Lycian Tombs in the rock faces of sheer clifts
T getting her toes nibbled at the hot springs
The ruins of Caunos and the views from the hillside were impressive.  It never ceases to amaze me that we are walking along paths of such ancient civilisations with no security.  Animals graze, visitors stroll around, structures are still buried in the ground yet to be discovered.  It all has been there for centuries and treated with an amazing casualness.

Ancient olive trees amongst the ruins

Treasures still buried
The amphitheatre, Caunos
I wonder how many bottoms have sat on these seats over the last 2800 years?
Goats grazing amongst the ruins
Ruins of Caunos
The next day we went to more ruins along the peninsula west of Marmaris.  After more than an hour along scenic but narrow winding roads, we first stopped off at the town of Turunç for lunch.  It was a rather tacky, touristy place that we had passed several times in the boat unaware of what it was about.  With the winding roads, it is one of the few places around that actually takes longer to get to by road than boat.   
Beaches Mediterranean style - we are so spoiled in Australia with our fantastic beaches
The town of Turunç
The ruins of Amos just past Turunç were much smaller than Caunous but the drive to reach them and the views over the sea were amazing.  Amos dates back to ‘only’ the 3rd Century BC and was administered by the Rhodian government.  The island of Rhodes is only about 20 nm away.
On the cliffs of Amos

Another beautiful bay

Marmaris is in the distance

The bay on the other side of Amos
 I’m not sure I will ever tire of these views.  The Mediterranean is such an exquisite shade of blue in the summer.  It is inspiring