Panormitis and Pedi

The quiet, pretty anchorage of Panormitis was quite different from when we were here in May.  In May there were only bout 5 boats in the anchorage, the one Taverna was not yet opened and there were only a handful of people ashore.  When the ferries came they dislodged about 50 people to mull around the monastery, buy a few icons then it was back to dead quiet an hour later when the ferry left.  Now towards the end of the season there are 20+ boats in the anchorage, the Taverna is doing a roaring trade, the spartan holiday flats are filled with elderly Greeks and the ferries coming three times a day contain hundreds of tourists.  Despite the increase in holiday makers, the area retains its quiet charm.

A panorama of Panormitis

We spent a very relaxing four days in Panormitis; reading, swimming, taking walks and generally enjoying the rhythm of the ferries, the monks’ chanting and bell ringing.  We had spectacular sunsets and moon rises to entertain us.

Sunset

Moon rise over the monastery

But eventually it was time to move on and say goodbye to this peaceful place.

Leaving the harbour

We moved up the east coast of Symi island to another anchorage, Pedi, near the main town of Symi.  There was no wind for our sail but a big blow was predicted the next day so we wanted to get snug in our next anchorage before the meltemi hit.  We motored up the coast and took advantage of the short passage to duck into the little bays on the way.  Some of these bays were spectacular and would make great stops for a spot of lunch but would not be very good for longer stays.

 

Specie cliffs and nice beach

We had heard a lot about Pedi from other sailors.  This is a convenient harbour to come across from Turkey to Greece for a Booze and Bacon run (essential items that are expensive or hard to find in Turkey).  The anchorage was a bit crowded and the town bigger and noisier than expected, but still charming and pleasant.

Pedi waterfront

We spent a few days here, provisioning, doing some odd and ends maintenance, swimming and snorkling.  One day we took a walk along the bay to a lovely little beach.  

St Nicholas Beach

A large motor yacht called 2 Ladies was anchored off the beach.  We noticed three crew members came ashore from the yacht in a big dinghy with tables, chairs and various bags of china and food.  They proceeded to set up an alfresco dining area under the shade of some shady trees.  The table was complete with tablecloth, champagne flutes and all the trimmings.  Then the three couples from the yacht, who were sunning themselves on the deck chairs along the beach, came and had a gourmet meal with the crew fawning over them.  We looked up the yacht on the internet and it can be chartered for a mere €210,000 per week!   A very different world for some people!

The 2 Ladies

Crew setting the table - note the white gloves

Initially we were going to spend a few days in Pedi then check out of Greece and head back to Turkey.  However when we went to get our e-visas for Turkey we realised that the timing was not good for us.  We tend to be fairly loose with our plans in this nomadic life we are living but sometimes juggling the ‘90 days in 180 days’ visas means a bit of long term (ie 6 months ahead) planning is necessary.  We realised it was a bit too early to return to Turkey as we would then have to leave mid-March 2017, which is early in the season and we would use up our 90 days in country before we were ready to leave.  So we had a few more weeks in Greece.  Where to go next.......?

Next stop?

Sailing Slow, Sailing Fast, Sailing Rocky-Rolly

After two days in pretty Emporios, it was time to move on.  We were up early as we had a relatively long sail ahead of us.  As we were dropping the mooring lines a pod of dolphins came into the bay to swim around the boats.  What a treat!  After nearly two years sailing around the Mediterranean this was the first time we saw dolphins.

It's a dolphin!

More dolphins in the early morning light

Our destination was Kamari/Kefalos anchorage on the southeastern side of Kos.  The winds were light but we were determined to motor as little as possible.  We poled out the genoa using our new snap shackle snatch block to stop it flogging in the light winds and with the wind behind us we tootled along at 3 knots.

Poled out genoa

We arrived at the anchorage in the late afternoon after an easy but slow ride.  We had visited this bay when we hired a scooter in May and it looked a great place to stay.  What a change in the place now it was peak season!  It was very touristy, mainly with tourist from the north of England.  It didn’t seem like Greece.  Give me the small, quiet islands any day.

 

 Just an overnighter in Kos then another early start and longish day sail to Tilos.  This time we had good winds and a great beam reach sail to Livadhi, Tilos.

Woo Hoo - 7+ knots

 

We dropped the hook, had a swim and shower then an early night to get ready for the next day sail to Symi.  There was a steady NW wind and we sailed all the way at 5.5 kts.  It would have been perfect except the seas were very rolly off our beam which made for a rocky-rolly ride that brought on a touch of the queazies. 

We were going across a shipping lane and had some close encounters with some cargo ships.  We chatted with one on the radio and eventually he changed course.  Evenso he came within about 500m to us, which is a bit too close for comfort with these big ships.

Large cargo ship close by

We entered pretty Panormitis harbour in the late afternoon after another great day of sailing.

Back to Greece and Songster

We got up at the crack of dawn on the 27^th of August (yes I am still about 3 weeks behind in the blog) for the 26 hour journey back to Lakkı, Leros and our Songster.  So a bus and train to Gatwick Airport, a flight to Istanbul, three hour layover then a flight to Athens and finally an overnight ferry to Leros then to the marina and Songster.  Songster was covered in dust and grime on the outside but the inside was as we left her and all in good nick.  We had 6 more days on the marina contract so we spent the time cleaning and provisioning Songster, installing the bits and bobs we got in the chandleries in England and minor maintenance jobs.

Bob up the mizzen - no more clang clang of loose cables inside the mast

We left the marina and anchored in the bay for our last two nights in Lakki.    An Italian training Barque, the Nave Palinuro, was visiting Lakki and was tied up to the ferry dock.  This pretty steel boat was built in 1932 and opened to the public.  We went for a tour and chatted to the trainee naval midshipmen.  They all seemed so young!

The Nave Palinuro

On the deck

We managed to finish our visit before the local Scout troop came on board

Finally it was time to start sailing again. We have spent several weeks all told on this pretty island of Leros and have gotten to know the town of Lakki quite well.  I was a bit sad to leave but it was time. As we left the Italian trainee sailors were up on the crossbars.  Very impressive and a nice send off for us.

The crew on the crossbars

We were going to have and easy start to our sailing and check out some anchorages we had seen when we took scooters around some of the islands in the spring.  First stop was Xerokampos at the southern end of Leros.  Light northerly winds were predicted but typically we had barely any wind and what there was came from the south.  So it was a motor to our destination but fortunately it was not too far.  We spent two nights in this pretty anchorage enjoying the tavernas and taking a walk to the chapel on the hill and even back to Lakki (only 3km over the hill) when Bob had lost his adjustable spanner in the water and we needed to get another.

Songster in Xerokampos anchorage

Xerokampos, Leros with Kalymnos island in the distance

While snorkling off the boat in Xerokampos I notice quite a bit of growth on Songster’s bottom.  Two months sitting in the marina and the marine flora and fauna just take up residence.  Bob rigged up some scrappers; one on a string and buoy and another on a wooden pole and we set about cleaning the old girl up.  This is the type of chore I enjoy – swimming, snorkling, feeding the fish and staying clean.  One can get to be quite a grotty yachtie with most boat chores.

Cleaning Songster's bottom

The next stop was a pretty anchorage, Emporios, on the northern end of Kalymnos.  This was another short sail in light winds but at least this time we did sail, averaging only about 2 kts but it was still very pleasant.  

Songster on a mooring in Emporios

The town and church in the evening sun of Emporios

We picked up a mooring and that evening had a delicious dinner at Kapitan Kostas’.  Bob had his usual Mousaka and I had goat in the oven.  We rounded the meal off with a bottle of Ouzo.  It was good to be back in Greece.

Ouzo - perfect summer drink

Return to the Big Smoke

We spent the next 10 days chilling out at Pam’s.  We were waiting for some banking mail to arrive from Australia so could not book our return to Greece until we had our bank cards.  Having all our banking needs met while living a nomadic life has been one of our great frustrations.  Generally electronic banking works for most things but when it doesn’t, it is a major hassle – but that is another story.  In between catching up on emails, paperwork and shopping for essentials not available easily in the Greek Islands or Turkey, we did manage some more sightseeing.

One day we met Pam after work and toured Highgate Cemetery in North London.  It was interesting to see this part of London which has quite a different feel than the south or city.  The Cemetery is a lovely parkland with trees and vines growing through and around the thousands of graves.  The trees damaging the graves bothered Bob but I found the effect quite enchanting.  We sought out some of the notable graves and just enjoyed the ambiance.

Highgate Cemetery

Karl Marx's grave

Douglas Adams' grave - So was the meaning of life really 42?

The perfect no nonsense tombstone

Another day we went to the Southbank to check out the Globe Theatre, Tower Bridge, the Borough Markets and the Golden Hinde, a replica of Drakes 16^th Century ship which circumnavigated the world.

The Globe Theatre

The Tower Bridge - nice walk across

Borough Markets - the best pasta I have ever tasted and the goat stall made me miss my favorite meal in Greece - Greek Salad and Goat in the oven

The Golden Hinde

Now that is a voyage!

We made an excursion to Popular in the East End to check out the streets where Bob’s mother and grandparents lived.  It has all been redeveloped now and none of the original houses were standing.  The docklands area has all been gentrified and frankly in the middle of the day was like a ghost down and quite soulless.  From the docklands we walked under the Thames in the tunnel to Greenwich.

The Thames walking tunnel - lovely and cool

Then we walked all around the old Royal Naval College with its magnificent Wren buildings including the dome and painted hall.   The whole area is quite beautiful and a step back in time.  It has been used in numerous film sets such as The Madness of King George and Little Dorrit.

The Royal Naval College

The Painted Hall

View from the top of Greenwich hill

We also went into the National Maritime Museum but only got through about half of the exhibits before closing time.

National Maritime Museum

Now that is a ship in a bottle!

On our last night in London we took the girls for a slap up meal at The Woodman a nice pub in Wimbledon Park.  It was a terrific visit with Pam and Nicole.  I’m sure they were glad to get their flat back but they made us feel welcome and I think I have grown to consider the flat my second home. (Don’t worry girls we won’t impose too much!)