Wandering Westward for Wintering

After Trizonia we continued our westward journey toward our wintering ground – Lefkas Marina in the Ionian.  We left Trizonia at sunrise with the sun trying to break through gray leaden skies.  Once out in the Gulf of Patras the wind built up and continued to build.  We had started out with a reefed mizzen and genoa.  We had to continue shortening sail so that by the time we went under the very impressive bridge across the Gulf we were sailing on a handkerchief of a foresail only and still doing 6 knots.

Zooming along with a handkerchief of a foresail

A bit chilly out in the Gulf of Patras

Approaching the bridge across the Gulf

Very impressive - the largest cable-stayed bridge in the world

Once we passed the sandbanks of Bampakoulia and turned north the conditions eased.  We entered the long, shallow channel towards Messolonghi.  The houses on these shifting sandbanks were on stilts and very reminiscent of Southeast Asia with a Greek flavour.  We moored alongside the town quay with only one other occupied sailboat and had an early night after a long day.

Houses along the channel to Messolonghi

 

In the morning just as we were ready to leave the boat to explore the town, a horde of teenagers descended on the waterfront.  There were two unoccupied charter yachts behind us and the teenagers swooped on these boats walking all over them in their street shoes, re-enacting Titanic scenes at the bow, munching chips and dropping crumbs over the teak and even finding a way to go below decks through unlocked hatches.  They weren’t being malicious but quite thoughtless and of course trespassing.  Needless to say we did not feel comfortable leaving Songster in the company of these curious teenagers.  We waited until the hordes dispersed into the classrooms of the nearby high school and with a bit of trepidation locked up Songster to go into the town.

Songster alongside in front of two unoccupied charter boats

The high school kids using the charter boats as their playground

The town turned out to have a nice pedestrian mall and central square and quite a pleasant atmosphere.  We didn’t linger though as we were worried about the boat.  As it turned out we did have a very minor theft, the green starboard tabs from the gate on safety lines were taken, probably decorating someone’s bicycle now.

Another early morning start the next day with very peaceful, calm conditions.  About an hour out some bottle-nosed dolphins came to visit us.  These were so much bigger than the dolphins we saw in the Northern Aegean.  Sadly they didn’t stay with us long but seeing wildlife in the over-fished Mediterranean is always a thrill.

Early morning start

Herons looking for breakfast in the shallow channel

Visited by some bottle-nosed dolphins

 

By mid-afternoon we arrived at the quiet little bay of Marathias.  It was just us and a family of pigs rooting around on the beach.  The piglets were so cute but I had no intention of going too near.  We stayed on the boat and enjoyed the solitude and beautiful pink sunset.

Peaceful bay with just us and the wild pigs

Speccie sunset

The next day we made our leisurely way towards the island of Lefkas.  It was a rather frustrating passage as the wind just would not co-operate.  We had the sails up and down three times before we just gave up to the iron spinnaker.   Still it is a beautiful area and we checked out a few bays on the pretty islands in between.  We passed Skorpios, the island owned by the Onassis family and where Jackie Kennedy married Aristotle Onassis.

Skorpios, the Onassis Island

Pretty bay near Lefkas

Approaching southern Lefkas

We stopped for the night at Tranquil Bay in the southeast of the island of Lefkas.  It was a pretty spot except for the several sunken boats.  The bay was filled with large jellyfish sporting interesting patterns on their domes.

A very human face

Jellyfish designs - they all seem different, like fingerprints

We got down the dinghy and went ashore for a walk around the town.  It was a Sunday and the end of the season so the place was quiet and only a few tavernas open.  Still it will be nice to return to explore more over the winter.

The next day was our last passage for the season – a short run up the channel to Lefkas Marina, our home for the next 4 months over winter.

Entering Lefkas Marina - our home for the next 4 months